Final leg in Portugal

Saturday 6^th September – 22nd September

Martinho

Expecting thunderstorms today (Saturday) so we went for a long walk before the storms. Needless to say they did not arrive but it encouraged us to go for a long walk early. On the way back we managed to buy some spices that we had not been able to find, or at least we think we have as the names are in Portuguese but we went on looks. Could be in for a surprise when we cook tonight. 

I cooked lemon chicken in the evening which one of us thought was very good, excellent in fact. Catherine thought the “rice was nice”.

Went for a swim early on Sunday, not out of choice. Our anchor was well and truly twisted around a massive anchor which we managed to drag up to just under the surface. After an hour of trying to free our chain, the only option was for me to don flippers and mask to free it. It took less than 5 minutes once I was in the water (it was freezing).

Paniche

The one good picture we took in Paniche

Motored the 18 miles to Paniche into a southerly wind where we squeezed into berth in the marina. Tourist Information recommended a walk around the coast which dates back to the Jurassic period. They did not focus much on the town but really sold the walk around the coast – 8km.   After 3km of a frankly not interesting walks we gave up (although there were the occasional stunning view) and cut back through the town which was even more depressing. We spent another hour looking for something to redeem the town but failed even to find a restaurant that we would want to eat in that evening. 

Final leg to Cascais 

Anchored in Cascais looking towards the town

On Monday we set off early for Cascais with a spring in our step. Final leg of this part of the journey and we again had to motor into a 10kn southerly wind so not very exciting. We anchored in Cascais harbour which is very attractive and set off in the dinghy to explore the town. Found an easy place to moor on the fuel pontoon and very helpfully we put the dinghy around the back so it would not block anyone else. Very easy at high tide.

After a drink and visit to a supermarket for food, we arrived back to find the dinghy stranded on the rocks. Bugger! Who did not check if the tide was falling!!! So we took off the engine and fuel and manhandled the dinghy across the pontoon on to the other side. It was dark by now and we did not have a torch for the journey back to our boat. Same person forgot the torch as who did not check the tides earlier so we will skip over that.

Dreadful night rolling around at anchor in the bay. Wind has continued to be unseasonably from the South so we got all the waves coming in. Headed off to Oeiras marina where we found we get a 50% discount on berthing so it just expensive rather than extortionate

A break in Brussels

We are flying to Brussels for Rebecca’s birthday today (Thursday) and all the children will be there. Possibly the last time we will all be together for a long time.  Up early for a shower at 7am (yes that is early for us) and walked the 20 minutes to the station at a brisk pace and only just managed to get the train. Sweated all the way to Lisbon. 

No problem in getting to the airport, arriving uncharacteristically with time to spare. Shame we went to the wrong terminal and then spent the next 20 minutes finding the right terminal and now had no time to spare. 

First time for us as parents we were not the hosts for the family. It is rather nice to be looked after by someone else, suggesting what we should do, when to eat and prepare all the food. Rebecca did a splendid job as well as looking after an 8 month old baby and both Ed and Rebecca were very good hosts. And it was great to see how our grandchild is progressing.

Back to Oeiras

We flew back to Lisbon on the Monday. Slight panic because we have friends Bill and Sue arriving tomorrow and we are not getting back to the boat until late tonight. It does need a clean, we have the washing to do, shopping to get and I have arranged some work to be done on the boat. Not a good position to be in when they are arriving in Lisbon at 10:00 in the morning!

Having felt the need to apologise in advance that we were not ready for them as planned, I phoned Bill when we got back to the boat in the evening. Apparently they are not coming to Wednesday (as we had arranged!) so it was a great relief. 

Tuesday was a mad panic getting everything done – boat cleaned, work completed, shopping sorted. As ever, these things do get done and we nice and relaxed when we met them on the Wednesday. Of course we were late having come 5 miles down the road when they arrived on time having left home 8 hours earlier.

Very enjoyable three days of sight-seeing, walking and even a tram ride around the city. On the second day we went to Sintra to see the royal palace which was the summer palace of the king and very splendid. After lunch in a little café, we left 30 seconds before the thunderstorm started and we were bathed in torrential rain for 20 minutes. The torrent of water flowing down the street ensured that our feet were soaked while the gusting wind meant that the umbrella was only offered a token of protection. But least it is warm and you dry out quickly!

The tram ride on the Friday was enjoyable but not as spectacular as we had imagined. We actually spent longer queueing for the tram than we spent on it. It was a one way journey that took about an hour – roughly the same amount of time it took us to walk back into town. And trams are a good idea why?

Now Bill and Sue have left it is time to get the boat ready for the crossing to Madeira. As always there is a list of jobs that are urgent, not least of all connecting up the cabin fans to cool us down in the heat now the thunderstorms of the last two weeks have passed. We also need to do the washing that seems to accumulate and with one washing machine for the whole marina it is a game of who can get there just as the last person’s washing cycle completes. 

Final preparation of the boat although there are still jobs outstanding that Steve and Annie can help with after they arrive tonight. Not least we need to do the menus and shopping for the 500 mile sail to Madeira.

First Week in Portugal

Wednesday 27^th August – Friday 5 September

Porto - The Home of Port

We discovered in Viana that a new marina had been built in Porto since our Pilot Guide was published in 2012. And within walking distance of the town rather than the 10km we were expecting.

The next day (Thursday) we set off for the walk to Porto along the river bank and indeed it was a very nice walk as had been described, if a little longer than we were led to believe. Still it only took 90 minutes and we were in the centre of Porto.  Lovely city (2^nd largest in Portugal) with an historic old centre that developed around the Port trade with England. Our walk around the city would have been more structured if the Tourist Information Office had not run out of English guides and our Portuguese is not yet up to translating a town guide (but we are very good at ordering beer). After a 5 hours walk up and down the hills of the town, we walk back to the marina which seems to be much longer on the way back.

 

On Friday we visited one of the Port producers in the afternoon. We chose Taylors (we had read somewhere that it was the best) without realising it was at the top of the hill on the other side of the river. I am not a great port fan so spending 30 minutes walking up a hill in 28 degrees of heat to sample a couple of glasses was a little perverse, particularly as we passed 5 others on the way.

The view from the Taylors Port warehouse was stunning

The tour lasted about 30 minutes. Ruby port which is the cheapest port, matured in medium size barrels while Tawny port is matured in much smaller barrels which interact with the wine giving it “complexity”. The best is vintage port and only about 2 years in every 10 years is declared a vintage year. In 1970, the port trade came up with the idea of “Late Bottled Vintage” port which is matured in the largest barrels and is less regulated than the true vintage port. Over the last 40 years there has only been 2 years in which the Late Bottled Vintage port has not been declared as “vintage” and it is produced on an industrial scale in 100,000 litre barrels. It is heavily marketed and so it is the best-selling port. Reading between the lines, unless you are a connoisseur of port (and why would you want to be?) the Tawny port is the one to go for.

Figueira da Foz

A brilliant 3 hour sail today on the way to Figueira da Foz. With 15 knots from the west with all three sails hoisted we sailed at over 7 knots. If only the other 9 hours could have been so good. We had a 2 metre swell coming over the beam and a wind from the South of 7 knots so not strong enough to stop the boat rolling and often violently which makes doing anything just that little bit more challenging.

We had a Chinese meal in Figueira that night - just fancied something traditionally English for a change. It was a choice of either Chinese or Indian. It was almost like being in a Chinese restaurant at home with the same menu more or less and the waitress speaking good but slightly broken English. Catherine managed to persuade the waitress to make some pancakes to accompany the crispy duck (not something they do here). They need to work on how to make the pancakes – not like the authentic ones we get at home.

Coimbra University founded in 13th Century

One of the reasons for coming to Figueira da Foz was to get the train inland to see Coimbra, some 45km away inland. Always exciting using public transport in another country and more so for us because we were not driving, the train did not pitch or roll and we had something other than sea to look at. 

After walking round the university at Comimbra (see picture), we visited the old cathedral built in 12^th century on the way back down the hill. The church has a picture of Queen Saint Isobel who was canonised in 1625 because she had suggested to the bishop, in 1320, that they hold the feast of the immaculate consumption in the church that year. She did not actually organise the feast, pay for it or make the sandwiches – she just made the suggestion to the bishop and for that she was canonised. Every church we visit I now drop a note to the same effect in the suggestion box on the way out. You never know.

On the Monday we decided that we should have a day off . May sound strange that we should need one but everyday has been taken up with sightseeing, maintaining the boat, washing and cleaning, planning trips or actually sailing. So we lazed around the boat reading in the shade of the bimini for most of the day. For dinner we cooked the hake that we had bought in the market that morning, a whole hake and they are not small. Will do us for a few meals.

Nazare was a shock.

Bleak is not the right word

The next day we head off to Nazare which is described as bleak by the Pilot Guide. I think they have oversold it. Mind you it does say that the surrounding area is worth visiting so we will stay for one day. It will also give me the chance to do a few repairs.

Nazare - Where boats come to die

Wednesday morning we walk around the old town after the 1.5km walk from the marina. A very pleasant town with old streets leading away from the beach where we found somewhere for lunch before going up the funicular railway to the top of the cliffs. Spectacular views of the town and the surfing beach (the best in Europe according to the Tourist Information Guide) because of the 

Marianna trench.

We liked the town enough to come back out in the evening to eat and enjoyed a local dish of clams in a regional sauce which is definitely on our list of must have again.

Sao Martinho – a taste of the Mediterranean

The next day we decided to sail the 5 miles to Sao Martinho do Porto in 9 knots of wind and smooth seas but it did take us a couple of hours. A couple of hours well spent!

Through the small entrance in the cliffs opens up a beach and town which is very reminiscent of the Mediterranean. We both feel instantly at home and decide to spend at least of couple of days here.And it has been very hot for the last few days and we might even go for a swim!

Leaving Spain

Wed 20^th August – 27^th August

First stop when we arrived at Vigo was the tourist information office. First one was closed (at 5pm since it is aimed at cruise ship passengers) and we set off with our limited map provided by the marina to find the other one. Two hours later and only thing we had found was somewhere to have a drink. However, by this time we had completed the cultural walk through the whole of the old town without a proper map (it really is not that big).

Could not get excited about Vigo. It is the largest town in Galicia and the modern part is as interesting as the small old historic part and the modern part was not that interesting. On the plus side we did have an excellent meal at one of the restaurants after a 2 hour walk around the town to try and find the “perfect” restaurant. If we were not so indecisive we would not get so much exercise and surely weigh a lot more. Sometimes it would be nice to go in the first restaurant we come to!

The next morning we went off to find the chandlers with the help of some addresses off the web, a proper map and directions from the very helpful Tourist Information staff. Chandlers in Spain do not display items in the shop but you have to ask for them. Knowing this, I still failed to either translate the list of items I wanted into Spanish before we went or bring a dictionary to help. Not a smart move and therefore the only items we purchased were some Sikaflex (same as in English), a fender and some warp because we could point to them. My attempted mime and helpful gestures to indicate that I wanted a base valve for a Jabsco sea toilet were lost on the staff (in both shops) but maybe mimes probably do not translate well.

Baiona

Final stop on our Spanish route and looking forward to seeing the town. Not disappointed when we arrived on Friday and we actually berthed on a finger pontoon that was almost big enough for our boat. The club house is very impressive and when we asked about eating in the restaurant there was a definite muted “it may be possible”. Not sure that was a really enthusiastic invite so we gave it a miss.

Finally found a marina with a washing machine after nearly two weeks and at 12 euros a wash I had high hopes – but it turns out we had to do it ourselves. Spent the afternoon between washing clothes, cleaning the boat and fixing the window with the Sikaflex we bought in Vigo. It was only a small repair and had not yet started leaking but I did not want to take any risks. I was pleased how well I had repaired it (amazed even).

Our normal search for a restaurant meant that we had pretty much explored the town by the time we found a restaurant and we had Crepes for dinner. OK it was a surprise to us and we had not looked at the menu properly but gone by the fact that it was rated “3” in Trip Advisor and it was busy but there was a table free. That is how you end up eating Crepes for dinner when you were not expecting it.

Given up trying to get a new seal for the forward heads and decided on Saturday morning that I should have one last go at taking it apart and seeing if I can get it to work properly. With that done we set off for a walk around the Parador which overlooks the harbour. Beautiful walk around the walls which give unparallelled views around the whole bay.

Walking around the Parador

Our private beach in front on the Parador

We had a slight change to our normal Sunday of cleaning the boat and doing the washing. Instead we serviced the engine as well as set up the blog site. The most important thing was to service the engine so I naturally started by setting up the blog – and then fiddling with it so I did not actually start the work on the engine until gone midday. Finished the engine about 5pm (a few hours later than planned) and then left to anchor off the beach. Basically it is free to anchor and the showers on board are better than at the marina. Only downside is we have to dinghy ashore but we were going to eat on board anyway so we lost nothing and we had use of the marina for most of the day. At 60 euros per night in the marina at Baiona it is more expensive than England and the weather is not that much better!

Off to Portugal

For the first time in a long while we are up at 7am (6am in the UK) on a Monday morning. Still dark and we faff around with tea etc by which time it is light. We have 12 hours sailing ahead of us to get to Leixoes in Portugal with light winds from the South West. After weighing anchor, Catherine goes back to bed and I start my two hour watch before she takes over.

Dolphins come to say goodbye as we leave Baiona

After about 4 hours we have a discussion about why we are going to Leixoes. Apparently neither of us actually wanted to go there and the historic town of Viana which we are just about to pass is one we both thought looked much better. So after a little communication, we agree to stop at Viana for the rest of the day.

An English couple (Jonathan and Anne) who we have bumped into from time to time (but always while sailing so we had not spoken but knew their boat name) helped us moor up. Later on another English couple (Alan and Lyn) moored next to us coming in like drowned rats through the rain and mist that had set in. Jonathan hosted a tapas and wine session aboard his boat in the evening which was very jolly and a good few bottles drunk. Nice to know that we are not the only people with ambitions on the world with a few gaps to fill in on the actual plans themselves.

We need to pay our Light Dues

Raining and very misty the next day so decided not to go on the Leixios. We did however find the office to pay our Light Dues (a kind of sailing tax) to the Portuguese Government. A fine of £150 euros if you are caught without the certificate.

It was our second attempt to find the office having been given two sets of directions already on how to get there. Finally I asked in the Tourist Information Office (who had never heard of the place) but suggested that we try the Maritime Police Office further down the Quay. The building itself is set back from the road with no signpost to say what it is. Catherine noticed that one of the car parking spaces was reserved for “Capitaine” and so we tried our luck. Third office we went into (none of which we signposted) we found the right place. We had spent some three hours on this venture over the last two days.

But we were now there with all our ships papers and patiently waited the 20 minutes while all the forms were filled in, the certificate drawn up and three copies made. We then received our invoiced and duly paid the two euros for the certificate!And before you have any cynical thoughts about this, if all the other sailors were as diligent as us, the Portuguese Government would collect enough revenue to almost pay the administration costs to collect the tax. Must be worth it.

Visting the Rias

10th August - 19th August

Ria Murso

On Sunday (10^th  August) we were planning to depart but it continues to rain so we stay another day in the marina. Finally sorted out the freezer which was only frozen at the bottom – the water cooling for the condenser unit had an airlock and we found a way to bleed the system quite easily (and after much discussion) and now working very well. Result! Catherine also fixed the handheld VHF that had not been working so we were on a roll.

We also cleaned the boat and took 3 loads of washing to be done. Seems that Sunday is becoming our cleaning day. Definitely going to leave tomorrow.

Next day we anchored at San Fransico Bay for the evening. After the second and successful attempt at anchoring, we decided that we were too close to the shallows off the starboard side and went to another part of the bay. Third attempt at anchoring was seemingly unsuccessful but anchor suddenly held just as we were about to take it up and try again.  Very noisy night with the anchor making lots of noise.

In the morning we could not get the anchor up – stuck at 40m chain marker although the depth was only 10m. Chain obviously stuck under a rock which is why the anchor suddenly held when we anchored last night. 30 minutes later of motoring around the chain and it freed up and we were on our way. No wonder it was noisy last night, the chain was attached to the rock directly beneath the boat. On the plus side it meant that we had no drag during the night!

Set off in 15kn of wind. 30 minutes later we were in 28kn of wind with the sea building so decided to turn back. Hard decision to make but we sailed back into Portosin and went into the marina with the wind at over 30kn. Made coming alongside the pontoon tricky but marina staff helped us tie up. Pleasantly surprised at how helpful the marina staff are here compared to Muros.

Ria Arousa

On Wednesday morning, the weather forecast was good and with a good night’s sleep behind us we set off again.

The pilot book and the chart disagreed which side of the channel this market was located!

This time the wind was light and from the North so heading South was easy. On route we changed our plans from taking the safe and easy route around the off lying island to the more difficult in-shore route with some complex navigation.

Just made it a bit more interesting and slightly more nerve wrecking (even with the plotter) to find both the 250m gap to get through and ensure we went through on the correct bearing.

An early morning view of the harbour

Lovely sail up to Caraminal where we anchored first time in the harbour so felt smug.And it was very restful.

Main excitement of the next day was being boarded by customs when we got back. Four of them in a very powerful boat black boat, shaped to avoid being detected by radar, came alongside to go through our papers, passports and ask about the boat. They were all dressed in black with helmets on so looked formidable. We would like to think that they also had guns but probably not. One of them spoke a little English and with the help of the dictionary, drawing and numbers written on a pad of paper we got through it. They then went off to the other boats moored in the bay. Smuggling is a big industry in Galicia and they obviously through we did not look the smuggling kind. Not sure if I was insulted by that or just pleased they did not turn the boat upside down. Probably the latter.

On the Saturday, after spending a windy night at anchorage, it was even  windier so we decided to go to the marina at Rianxo. Arrived and moored up at the smallest pontoon yet – it was less than half the boat’s length. Still have not quite got the hang of berthing on such small pontoons – all the fenders need to go on the bow and we need more warps to actually secure the boat (and help in windy conditions). However, all worth it and despite low expectations after seeing the marina, the town itself was really interesting with small streets, interestingly alley ways and lots of nice restaurants. Spent an afternoon on the beach sitting in the shade as it was so hot just relaxing.  

We went back into the town in the evening to watch the local dancing with traditional Galician band and dancers in traditional dress. We spent two hours watching the dancing before heading off to a local restaurant with the other 300 people from the audience at about 11:30. Very enjoyable day.

Ria do Pontevedra

On the Sunday (17^th) we sailed the 28 miles to Combarro in near perfect winds – 20 knots from the North and slight seas. Wind died after about 5 hours and we had to motor up the Ria to Combarro. Catherine cooked a Tortilla on route which we eat at the cockpit table with some salad as there was no wind, no waves and we were gently motoring along.

Narrow streets of Combarro

Combarro is the first real tourist town we have been to which has a very different feel. It was built on granite rock which forms many of the pavements so it is a little like rock climbing on a small scale as you wander round the old fishing town. Very old buildings line the small streets with plenty of tourist shops and restaurant back to back. Very pretty and an enjoyable stroll before sitting down in one of the more touristy restaurants (it had a good view of the sea). Octopus and razor clams for dinner. Decided that we would not have shell fish for a while – it is getting a little “samey” and every restaurant serves the same 12 dishes cooked in the same way.

The next day Took the bus to Pontavedre to see the historic town which used to be the capital of Galicia. Very hot day as Catherine navigated us around the town using the English guide and map from the Tourist Information Office. Enjoyed the walk and the town was worth going to see, if a little over sold in the tourist guide.

Ria Vigo

On Tuesday (19^th) he Weather forecast was again northerly F4-5 and sea state slight so we set off to round to the Ria Vigo, the last of the Spanish Rias. Wind was actually from the South West and did not get above 10 knots (F2) so once again we ended up motoring. Anchored at the end of the Ria in a small lake which is very picturesque. Chicken fajitas for dinner – we really wanted something that was not shell fish and we watched ‘The Thin Man’ while eating dinner on board. Run out of white wine we had bought so we tried some wine we were given in La Coruna by the marina staff (after all the boat had been there for 6 weeks). Decided we could live without white wine for the evening!

Off to Vigo tomorrow.

Back in Spain

27 July to  8th August

Martin and Frankie left us today (Friday 8th August) after spending 5 days with us sailing down the Spanish coast. We are now in Muros awaiting the weather to improve before we set off again. It has been very windy for a few days and then very wet but looks like it is better from tomorrow onwards.

We had a good time in La Coruna, visiting the oldest lighthouse in the world (apparently), the house where Picasso developed his genius for painting (apparently) and listening to the concerts in the square which were actually very good. The weather was good all week up until the Sunday when it was a little overcast but no rain.

The first day of sailing was 10 hours of beating into a force 5 wind. We were pleased when we arrived into the bay at Laxe and anchored for the night. We took the dinghy ashore for dinner where one of the specialties was translated as “knives from sea to plate”. Turns out to be razor clams (absolutely delicious) but not sure how they got to the translation.  Also octopus is another dish which we have found to be very good which was surprising. We had some challenges starting the engine on the dinghy while we were drifting out in the sea. We provided the locals with some entertainment, particularly as Frankie and Catherine were in fits of laughter.

The next day the wind was even stronger (24-28kn) which made the short trip around the bay even longer while beating into the wind and waves. We were all pleased when we arrived in Corme for the night and tied up in the shortest pontoon ever – it was less than half the size of our boat. The harbour master was insistent that we could tie up and helped us together with a Frenchman who was “astonished” that we were so unprepared for such a short pontton. Given the wind strength and the shortness of the pontoon we tied up quite well I thought.

The following morning we decided that we should leave early to avoid the wind in the afternoon. So Martin and I got us off at 7:30 while Catherine and Frankie slept in – until 11:00 when they got up for tea and croissant. While the wind was fairly strong in the morning, by 11:00 it was less than 10kn and we had a very easy motor around to Morus, passing off Cape Finisterre in the mist.

Martin and Frankie on the last day when the weather was good.

Marin and Frankie have at least one good day on the boat before they leave. That is if you ignore the mist in the background.

Just a few of the hundreds of pilgrim we say that day

Yesterday (Saturday) we took the bus to Santiago de Compestella to visit the cathedral. After Rome, it attracts the most pilgrims in the world and while we were there, people were arriving by the hundred. The cathedral is built on the site where they found St James’s remains in 897AD. St James actually died in Greece and was buried there in about 40AD  but a shepherd heard some voices in the forest in Santiago in 897AD and told the bishop who told the King. The King then decreed it was the site where St James died and his remains were buried there. Incidentally, he used this event to rally the Christian forces against the Moors and slaughtered hundreds of thousands of them. Cynics think that the find at that particular time was not a coincidence but you can decide.

Whatever you think of the story of St James it is a very impressive catherderal

So today is still wet and we may stay another day before once again setting off on another adventure. There are worse places to be stuck.