Wednesday 27th
August – Friday 5 September
Porto - The Home of Port
We discovered in Viana that a new marina had been built in
Porto since our Pilot Guide was published in 2012. And within walking distance
of the town rather than the 10km we were expecting.
The next day (Thursday) we set off for the walk to Porto
along the river bank and indeed it was a very nice walk as had been described,
if a little longer than we were led to believe. Still it only took 90 minutes
and we were in the centre of Porto.
Lovely city (2nd largest in Portugal) with an historic old
centre that developed around the Port trade with England. Our walk around the
city would have been more structured if the Tourist Information Office had not
run out of English guides and our Portuguese is not yet up to translating a
town guide (but we are very good at ordering beer). After a 5 hours walk up and
down the hills of the town, we walk back to the marina which seems to be much
longer on the way back.
On Friday we visited one of the Port producers in the
afternoon. We chose Taylors (we had read somewhere that it was the best)
without realising it was at the top of the hill on the other side of the river.
I am not a great port fan so spending 30 minutes walking up a hill in 28
degrees of heat to sample a couple of glasses was a little perverse,
particularly as we passed 5 others on the way.
The view from the Taylors Port warehouse was stunning |
The tour lasted about 30 minutes. Ruby port which is the
cheapest port, matured in medium size barrels while Tawny port is matured in
much smaller barrels which interact with the wine giving it “complexity”. The
best is vintage port and only about 2 years in every 10 years is declared a
vintage year. In 1970, the port trade came up with the idea of “Late Bottled
Vintage” port which is matured in the largest barrels and is less regulated
than the true vintage port. Over the last 40 years there has only been 2 years
in which the Late Bottled Vintage port has not been declared as “vintage” and
it is produced on an industrial scale in 100,000 litre barrels. It is heavily
marketed and so it is the best-selling port. Reading between the lines, unless
you are a connoisseur of port (and why would you want to be?) the Tawny port is
the one to go for.
Figueira da Foz
A brilliant 3 hour sail today on the way to Figueira da Foz.
With 15 knots from the west with all three sails hoisted we sailed at over 7
knots. If only the other 9 hours could have been so good. We had a 2 metre
swell coming over the beam and a wind from the South of 7 knots so not strong
enough to stop the boat rolling and often violently which makes doing anything
just that little bit more challenging.
We had a Chinese meal in Figueira that night - just fancied
something traditionally English for a change. It was a choice of either Chinese
or Indian. It was almost like being in a Chinese restaurant at home with the
same menu more or less and the waitress speaking good but slightly broken
English. Catherine managed to persuade the waitress to make some pancakes to
accompany the crispy duck (not something they do here). They need to work on how
to make the pancakes – not like the authentic ones we get at home.
Coimbra University founded in 13th Century |
One of the reasons for coming to Figueira da Foz was to get
the train inland to see Coimbra, some 45km away inland. Always exciting using
public transport in another country and more so for us because we were not
driving, the train did not pitch or roll and we had something other than sea to
look at.
After walking round the university at Comimbra (see picture), we visited the old cathedral built in 12th century on the
way back down the hill. The church has a picture of Queen Saint Isobel who was canonised
in 1625 because she had suggested to the bishop, in 1320, that they hold the
feast of the immaculate consumption in the church that year. She did not
actually organise the feast, pay for it or make the sandwiches – she just made
the suggestion to the bishop and for that she was canonised. Every church we
visit I now drop a note to the same effect in the suggestion box on the way
out. You never know.
Nazare was a shock.
Bleak is not the right word |
The next day we head off to Nazare which is described as
bleak by the Pilot Guide. I think they have oversold it. Mind you it does say
that the surrounding area is worth visiting so we will stay for one day. It
will also give me the chance to do a few repairs.
Nazare - Where boats come to die |
Wednesday morning we walk around the old town after the
1.5km walk from the marina. A very pleasant town with old streets leading away
from the beach where we found somewhere for lunch before going up the funicular
railway to the top of the cliffs. Spectacular views of the town and the surfing
beach (the best in Europe according to the Tourist Information Guide) because
of the
Marianna trench.
We liked the town enough to come back out in the evening to
eat and enjoyed a local dish of clams in a regional sauce which is definitely on
our list of must have again.
Sao Martinho – a taste
of the Mediterranean
The next day we decided to sail the 5 miles to Sao Martinho
do Porto in 9 knots of wind and smooth seas but it did take us a couple of
hours. A couple of hours well spent!
Through the small entrance in the cliffs opens
up a beach and town which is very reminiscent of the Mediterranean. We both
feel instantly at home and decide to spend at least of couple of days here.And it has been very hot for the last few days and we might even go for a swim!
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